Pink and white clothes

How to Get Pink Stains Out of Clothes: Make-up and other Direct Stains

Colour-bleeding is one thing, but if you’ve accidentally lipsticked your sleeve that’s a very different kind of stain. Thankfully, removing direct pink stains on clothes is a much faster process than removing colour-bleeding. Here are some handy suggestions.

  • Using a white cloth or tissue, first blot away as much of the stain as you can, before treating the fabric.
  • Makeup stains respond well to alcohol-based solvents. Try applying rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer to the back of the stain, and blot away with a cotton ball until the stain is gone. Or you can spray on hairspray and blot away the pink stains. Remember to always test any products on a small area of the garment first.
  • Berry stains do not require an alcohol-based solvent. Often, you just need to pour very hot (just-boiled water) directly onto the stain in a rapid stream. Take care when handling hot water to avoid injury. Adding some dishwashing detergent may help.
  • Commercial stain removers can also be very effective. Just follow the directions on the label, and test the product in a small area first.
  • Another approach is to wet the stained area and rub in a small amount of dishwashing detergent, using a towel and a circular motion. After enough rubbing, the stain should be gone.
  • If a faint stain still remains, cut a lemon in half, rub the juice into the stain, and let the white fabric sit in direct sunlight. This is another effective way of removing stains from white clothing.

With these tips, you no longer need to ask: “How do you get pink stains out of white clothes?” Whether it’s an unlucky colour-bleed from a laundry wash, a makeup accident, or a strawberry pie, pink stains can easily be removed from your white clothes with these tips.

How to Get Dye out of Clothes

Whether it’s a tie-dyeing project gone wrong, or a red shirt unknowingly washed with a load of whites, a case of accidental dye can seem like a headache to remove! But even though the dye may seem widespread, it’s actually not that difficult to get rid of a dye stain. We’ve found that with some speedy action and Persil Biological Washing Powder for whites, or Persil Small & Mighty Colour for coloured clothes you can tackle those troublesome dye stains and rescue any laundry casualties.

How to Remove Dye from Clothes: Basic Tips

Before you start, be sure to follow these basic tips for removing a dye stain, regardless of your clothing’s fabric. You’ll find specific instructions for treating different types of clothes listed later on in this article.

  1. Always act as soon as you notice a dye stain. The longer a stain has to set, the more difficult it is to remove.
  2. Read the garment’s care labels. These should indicate the correct water temperature and method for washing your clothing.
  3. Before you try to remove a dye stain, spot-test your stain remover solution on a hidden area of the stained fabric.
  4. Do not tumble-dry any stained clothes before you treat them, as the high heat can set the dye stain.
  5. If the dye stain was caused by a non-colourfast item in the load, make sure to remove that item and hang it to dry. Keep it separate from other clothing so it won’t stain again.

How to Get Dye Out of White Clothes

White clothes may appear temporarily ruined by a dye stain, but the good news is that the solution for treating white clothes is simple. Dye stains respond well to hot water, so check the garment care labels first to find out the hottest temperature you can use.

  1. Mix a solution of Persil Bio Washing Powder and the hottest water possible for your fabric.
  2. Soak your clothes in this solution for at least 30 minutes up to a few hours.
  3. Rinse in hot or warm water.
  4. Wash as normal in your washing machine.
  5. If the dye stain remains, repeat Steps 1 to 3.
  6. You may also want to try a commercial colour run remover. Be sure to follow both the product instructions and the garment care labels.
  7. For particularly stubborn stains, you can also try a non-chlorine bleach (or oxygen bleach) – but only if the garment care labels allow this, as bleach can damage certain fabrics. Mix a solution of cool water and non-chlorine bleach, and soak your garment for a few hours in this. Remember: use biocides safely. Always read the label and product information before use.
  8. After you’ve soaked your item, wash as normal.

How to Remove Dye from Coloured Clothes

For colour fast clothes, you may be able to follow the steps as for white clothes. However, we do not recommend this unless you are sure your garments are colour fast – try our simple colour fast test to check. If you discover that your garments are not colour fast, follow these steps:

  1. Take a white cloth and dampen it with a commercial stain remover, rubbing alcohol, hairspray, or any clear solvent that is 90% alcohol.
  2. Dab the stain with the white cloth repeatedly, and the dye should keep transferring from your garment onto the white cloth.
  3. Afterward, rinse in warm water.
  4. Proceed with normal wash.
  5. If the dye stain persists, repeat Steps 1 to 3.
  6. If the dye stain is still there and your garments original colour hasn’t faded, you can try soaking it in a solution of Persil Small & Mighty Colour and the hottest water possible (according to garment care labels). Soak for at least 30 minutes (checking that the garment’s original color isn’t fading whilst soaking).
  7. Afterward, rinse and launder as normal in the washing machine.

To prevent accidental colourbleed in the future, remember to always sort your laundry according to colour. However, sometimes you just can’t predict a dye stain – at least now you’ll know how to get dye out of clothes! You can also find out how to keep your coloured clothes looking vibrant with our guide on colour care here. Have you experienced a colour run nightmare? Share with us your suggestions on how to remove dye from clothes.

A MUM was left stunned when she opened up her washing machine to find her family’s holiday clothes had been dyed a shocking pink – despite all of the contents being white.

Becky France took to Facebook to share her disarray at finding that all of her children’s clothes had been turned a bright fuchsia colour when the washing powder reacted with the leftover sun cream in the cycle.

5 Becky posted the photo exposing the unfortunate results of the sun cream and washing powder mixingCredit: Facebook 5 She couldnt understand why her holiday garments had all been stained pink when they were all whiteCredit: Facebook

She wrote: “My holiday clothes were white but had gone a bit yellow with the sun cream so thought I’d brighten them up.

“This is what ACE for whites has done within seconds of me putting them. What on earth has gone wrong??”

She uploaded pictures clearly showing that all of her white garments were now stained all over with flashes of pink.

However she was quick to whip out an old-fashioned trick of soaking the stained items in bleach and water in a bid to get them back to their original state – after being told sunscreen could be to blame.

5 Her sons football kit got a bright paint job tooCredit: Facebook

The mum updated fellow users on her clothes washing nightmare, commenting: “As if by magic it’s white again! I did a wash with a bit of bleach and hung out in the sunshine.

!Thank you to everyone who helped. X”.

5 By mixing water and bleach with the stained garments she managed to restore their white colour completelyCredit: Facebook 5 And she made sure to update her followers along the wayCredit: Facebook

She went on to share how the white-saving trick even brought back her son’s messy football kit.

“Even rescued the boys football kit… and the boys trainers. Why I bought a nine-year-old white trainers I’ll never know.”

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Here’s how to strip wash your clothes to ensure they’re really clean

Here’s the right way you should be doing your laundry

xoJane October 02, 2016 6:30 pm FB Twitter ellipsis More Image zoom

This is yet another post that my current and former housemates are going to read like slack-jawed yokels, because I am almost physically incapable of doing my own personal laundry. All of my clothes are dirty and heaped in piles both inside and outside of my house.

But as you may know, I actually wash people’s clothes for a living. So laundry is one of about 5 topics that I’m an expert on. (Along with Texas history, macaroni and cheese, Marie Antoinette and sweater folding.)

Let’s start at the very beginning: sorting. Yes, it’s totally boring, but it is also the absolute cornerstone of good laundry practices. If you are currently just cramming everything into one load, guess what? You’re doing it wrong.

I believe there to be 5 distinct categories you should be separating your laundry into: whites/lights, brights, darks, gentle/cold water washables, and household linens. Here’s a breakdown of what goes where:


A load of lights means only very pale colored or white T-shirts, cotton undies, pajamas, shorts, and the like. Basically anything that is light enough to not bleed onto other garments. I consider pale/medium yellow to be the demarcation line between light and dark. I wash lights in warm water.


In laundry, as in life, red means danger. Red clothing is laundry enemy #1, as it is notorious for turning an entire load of whites a pale pink. You can wash reds, bright oranges, hot pinks and deep purples together once you are sure they are colorfast.

I often test colorfastness by spraying the garment with water and blotting with a paper towel to see if any dye transfers. You can go a step further and swish the item around in a sink of cool water to see if it releases any color. This may seem like an annoying extra step but you will thank me profusely later when you preemptively save your favorite blouse. I wash brights in cool water to cut down on color fade.


Your darks load should obviously include stuff like blue jeans, sweatshirts, and gym clothes. Basically any garment that can stand up to the dye in a pair of blue jeans. But a warning: If your jeans are brand new, wash them alone until they finish their “new jeans dye purge.” (It will be obvious they are done purging once your thighs stop turning blue after wearing said jeans.) I wash my really good jeans inside out to help prevent fading, and take them out of the dryer while they are slightly damp to prevent scorching.

Shirts that have a white body with dark sleeves always stress me out—what to do? I just wash them by themselves in a mini-load the first few times to see how they behave. I wash darks in cool or warm water, depending on the grime level.


I keep anything delicate, silky, linen, vintage, or slinky out of the regular wash. This includes my underwear, bras, vintage slips, and stuff that just seems it would be beefed by hot water and a super aggressive spin cycle. Even cheap polyester dresses from Forever 21 can benefit from the extra care the gentle cycle and cold water gives! Cold water puts less stress on the fibers and when they take less of a beating, they don’t pill or fray quite as easily. I make sure throw my expensive undies in a mesh laundry bag so they don’t get hammered by the spin cycle.

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The mesh bag is also a good way to make sure your socks don’t get lost in the wash, you crazed, neurotic sock matchers. Make sure you never put anything you deem mesh bag or gentle cycle-worthy in the dryer. It’s all drip dry, baby.

Household Linens

If you’ve ever accidentally washed a bath towel with some of your clothes, you already know that they produce a special kind of lint that attaches itself to your wardrobe forever, like lice on a first grader. Be sure to wash towels, sheets, and kitchen rags by themselves in the hottest water you can because ewww grime, food particles, body fluids, yuck.

Hot water kills bacteria and deodorizes naturally. If everything you are washing is pure white, add a 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach to really amp up the clean. But don’t overdo it because too much bleach turns everything yellow and can eat right through the fibers.

As you sort everything, make sure to check all pockets for money, tissues, lipsticks and other random objects that could foul up your clothes. My laundry cross to bear is pockets permanently full of safety pins. When my washer stopped working one day, the repair guy came out, opened up the trap and about 700 safety pins came tumbling onto the ground.

He looked at me rather incredulously as he asked, “What exactly do you do with all of these?” I just laughed and casually tossed the dozen or so pins I had in my pocket at that very moment into the nearest trashcan.

Be sure to button all buttons and snap all snaps. This helps lessen fastener breakage and stops garments from getting incredibly twisted in the wash. Trust me, we’re almost at the part where I’ll let you actually start the washer.

Check for stains and pre-treat them accordingly — because once you wash and heat dry a stain, it’s yours for life. I’m a huge fan of Dryel’s stain pen. It’s straight dry cleaning fluid on a stick.

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If your stains are of the terrible yellow underarm variety, all hope is almost certainly lost — but you can try a homemade paste of Dawn dishwashing liquid, hydrogen peroxide and baking soda. Use it to give the affected area a scrub using an old toothbrush. It sometimes works, but only on plain white, 100% cotton garments.

I want to drop in a quick word about the Dryel home dry cleaning system here—I think it’s a decent substitute if you have lightly worn dry-clean only items that just need a refresher in between professional cleanings. I am hesitant to use it on silk and I never use it on anything with a lining (such as a suit jacket) or leather. It’s basically a good spot remover/steamy scent refresher, not a complete replacement for real dry cleaning.

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Even proper dry cleaning can’t always remove certain stains—sweat in particular. If you happen to sweat like crazy, invest in a sweat-trapping Nudy Patooty undershirt or these clever disposable “Garment Guard” underarm shields. They are my two no-fail solutions to stop sweat before it has the power to ruin clothes.

It’s been a long time coming but you are finally ready to start the washer. But before you do, determine what the proper load size is for your washer. Overloading it leads to not enough water and soap working its way into your garments, preventing them from getting really clean. Everything should be packed in loosely, not tightly—much like a bowl of chunky chicken soup.

A regular capacity washer holds one bed sheet, four pillowcases, two or three shirts, and about six pairs of underwear. (Not that you should be washing all those things together! It’s just to give you a visual.)

You may not realize it, but your washer needs a little TLC sometimes. Make sure to run it empty with a cup or two of white vinegar every so often to keep it clean. (Listerine works too!) Wipe down the inside of the machine, lid and seals regularly with a wet cloth.

If your washer is leaving rust spots on your clothes, the enamel has most likely chipped off somewhere inside. A little sanding and painting with some rustproof paint is a way easier repair than it sounds.

Don’t forget to check the lint trap every time you dry a load — both inside the machine and at the back where the exhaust is. Clogged lint screens impact the efficiency of your dryer and can even start fires!

Did you know that balls are good for laundry? They are. I own and swear by these Mister Steamy dryer balls. (Of course it’s an “As Seen On TV’” product.)

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They not only keep your clothes from bunching up, but they kick out a pretty good portion of wrinkles. The steam action is minimal, but it can’t hurt. (If you are broke or cheap, a plain old tennis ball works well for this purpose too.)

I take everything out of the dryer while it’s just this side of damp. Any longer and things start shrinking rapidly. If you are anything like me, you now have a giant mountain of clean laundry that you can dig through like a rat all week long to find what you need.

Start doing your laundry right, would you?

This article originally appeared on xoJane by Alison Freer.

  • By xoJane

Didn’t want a pink shirt? We’ve all been there. It’s all too easy to miss that dark item in a bundle of whites. Here’s what to do when you end up with a washing basket filled with a colour you didn’t expect…

Why it happens
When any non-colourfast items are washed at too high a temperature, the dye bleeds out of the fabric – especially with newer items. That’s why we should always sort wash loads carefully and wash dark and similar-colours separately.


How to fix it
First, check the item doesn’t have a ‘do not bleach’ symbol. This looks like a triangle with a cross through it. If it doesn’t, soak in a weak solution of household bleach for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and repeat as necessary.

For coloured items, try using a colour-run remover – we recommend Dr Beckmann’s Colour Run Remover. Test on a hidden area first as it may affect the overall colour.


How to prevent it
Wash non-colourfast items on a low temperature machine setting with similar-hued items or wash by hand, quickly, in cold water. To find out of your item is colourfast, wet a small area of the garment with water and then blot with kitchen roll. Iron over the top. If any colour comes off on the paper it’s non-colourfast. Or wet an inside seam and rub with a cotton bud or tissue – again if any colour transfers it’s non-colourfast.


Washer Water Temperature Guide

How do you know the best temperature for your wash load? Before you touch that dial or select that button, consider this:

When to Use Hot Water – For whites, typically dirty clothes and diapers, use hot water (130°F or above). Hot water is best to remove germs and heavy soil. However, hot water can shrink, fade and damage some fabrics, so be sure to read your clothing labels before selecting the hot option.

When to Use Warm Water – For man-made fibers, knits and jeans, use warm water (90°F). Most of your clothes can be washed in warm water. It offers good cleaning without significant fading or shrinking.

When to Use Cold Water – For dark or bright colors that bleed or delicate fabrics, use cold water (80°F). Cold water also saves energy, so it is a good choice if you want to be eco-friendly. If you choose cold water, you may need to pre-treat or pre-soak your clothes if your laundry items are heavily soiled.

Also, it’s important to note that the lower the temperature of the water, the more detergent you need. If the temperature of the water is below 60°F, no soap or detergent performs well. But don’t make the water too hot. Washing heavily soiled articles with hot water can set stains. For heavily soiled clothes, prewash them in cool water, then wash them again in water that is 130°F or higher. The rinse water can always be cold without any harmful effects on the wash load. If you rinse the fabric in cold water, it will reduce wrinkling, save energy and it won’t set stains.