Kitchen pantry cabinets IKEA

Table of Contents

Since sharing our Kitchen Pantry Reveal, we’ve gotten a lot of emails from our readers asking about how to build a pantry. After having an opportunity to learn some basics of Google Sketch Up from the super talented, Rayan Turner from The Design Confidenital, I thought it would be fun to sketch up our pantry cabinet plans and share how to build a pantry!

Here’s a quick reminder of the before and after pics of our pantry!

And for those that are intimidated by the idea of taking on such a large project, consider getting in touch with our amazingly talented friend, Sandra of Sawdust Girl! She coaches DIY’ers through projects just like this! Check out this massive Studio-Craft Room that one of her clients was able to build!

Just a quick note: For those of you wanting to build a pantry based on these plans, you may need to modify the height of the cabinets, as we have 9′ ceilings which I don’t believe to be the norm!

Material List:

  • 6- 4′ x 8′ Sheets of 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ Sheets of 1/4″ Luon
  • 2 – 1 x 4 x 8′ Poplar Boards
  • 2- 1 x 3 x 10′ Poplar Boards
  • 1-1/4″ Kreg Fine Thread Screws
  • 18g Brad Nails
  • 3/4″ Premium Wood Screws
  • 2-1/2″ Premium Wood Screws

Tool List:

  • Table Saw
  • Circular Saw
  • Miter Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig Jr.
  • KREG Shelf Pin Jig
  • Air Compressor and Brad Nailer

Pantry Cabinet Cut List:

  • 6 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 76″ x 20″
  • 3 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 56″ x 20″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 28″ x 20″
  • 1 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 26 1/2″ x 20″
  • 3 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 20″
  • 4 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 14″ x 20″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 12 1/2 x 20″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 5″ x 56″
  • 3 – 3/4″ Cabinet Grade Plywood @ 5″ x 18 1/2″
  • 1 – 1/4″ Luon @ 28″ x 76″
  • 2 – 1/4″ Luon @ 14″ x 76″
  • 1 – 1/4″ Luon @ 56″ x 24″
  • 1 – Poplar @ 3″ x 60 1/2″
  • 2 – Poplar @ 3″ x 100″
  • 1 – Poplar @ 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″
  • 2 – Poplar @ 1 1/2″ x 54 1/2″
  • 2 – Poplar @ 1 1/2″ x 46 1/4″
  • 2 – Poplar @ 1 1/2″ x 28 1/4″

Cutting Tip:

By taking a look at the cut list, you’ll see that there are a number of plywood pieces that are cut to the same length. You may find it easier to cut some of the sheets to length first by using a circular saw and a straight edge.

Using a table saw, rip the plywood and 4″ poplar boards to the correct widths. The poplar boards that get ripped down to 1-1/2″ will be used for facing once the cabinets are built and installed.

Pantry Cabinet Assembly:

With the plywood ripped and cut to length, it’s time to build a pantry! All of the cabinets are assembled using pocket holes made with a Kreg Jig. If you’re not familiar with how these work, take a minute to check out my walk through of how to use a Kreg Jig Jr.

First, build the two outer cabinets.

Measure down 29″ from the top of the frame and clamp a straight edge in place for the fixed shelf to rest against as you screw it into place. For easier installation of the fixed shelf, screw it in place before attaching the second side of the cabinet.

If you’ve never seen the KREG Shelf Pin Jig,
you should add it to the top of your shopping list! It makes it ridiculously easy to drill pin holes for adjustable shelves. And since the jig has hardened case steel guides, your pin holes stay accurate and don’t wobble.

Use a 10″ piece of scrap wood as a spacer to accurately place the jig, resulting in level pin holes. Butt the shelf pin jig against the edge of your scrap wood and the edge of your plywood, then clamp it in place, and drill your holes for your shelf pins.

Once you’ve got the outer cabinets put together, move onto building the middle and upper cabinets.

Lastly, build the platform that the cabinets will sit on. The platform raises the cabinets up so that when you add baseboard molding, the lower shelf is slightly above the top of it.

The platform has a support that runs along the center as seen below. It is one of the 18-1/2″ x 5″ pieces accounted for in the cut sheet.

Using a nail gun with 18g 1-1/4″ brads, attach the plywood top to the platform frame.

Before installing the cabinets, you’ll need to attach the luon backing. Check out how Jacque got creative during the pantry update using a Royal Design Studio Stencil on the backing to add her own unique touch!

Installing and Securing the Pantry Cabinets in Place:

Place the three cabinets onto the raised platform connect them together using 3/4″ premium wood screws. Next, install the upper cabinet directly on the top of the the other three and secure in place using 3/4″ premium wood screws. If possible, secure the cabinets to the surrounding stud wall using 2-1/2″ premium wood screws.

Lastly, to finish off the cabinet installation, attach the facing to the frame using a nail gun and 18g brads.

I think this is a good stopping point for part 1! We’ll be diligently working on getting part 2 out as soon as we can!

In the meantime, I’d love to get your feedback on the pantry plans.

After all, this is our first time using Google SketchUp on one of our projects!

There are affiliate links in this post, however, the opinions and statement found here within are completely my own.

Pull Out Shelves Overview: Benefits of rollouts

It may sound like hype, but adding rollouts to your kitchen storage cabinets can be life-changing. I speak from personal experience. I recently added pull out pantry shelves to our entire kitchen, and this is what happened:

  • The kids have complete access to everything they need—from cereal to the recycling with pull out shelves. Now they can get their own breakfast and take the cans to the curb—no excuses!
  • My sore back and my husband’s bum knee are less of an issue pull out shelves since we no longer have to constantly stoop to find things in our base cabinets.
  • Dinner prep goes a lot faster now that we’re not hunting for pot lids and baking pans piled on top of one another on our jumbled, dark shelves.
  • We’re saving money by not buying things we already have (but that had been lost in the recesses of our cabinets). We can pull our shelves into the light and see everything, including the rancid oil and three boxes of cornstarch we somehow acquired—need some?
  • The kitchen feels larger and works better. The rollouts maximize every cubic inch of storage space, so I can store rarely used appliances in my cabinets instead of on my counters.

Are you a convert to pull out shelves yet? This slide out cabinet shelves article will give you tips for planning, buying and building kitchen rollouts so they can change your life too. You can build a simple rollout drawer like the ones shown in a couple of hours for $20. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. Once you see that rollout in action, you’ll want to retrofit all your kitchen storage cabinets. What are you waiting for?

Pull out pantry shelves

Rollouts make this pantry kitchen super-efficient for storage while keeping everything close at hand.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 1: Think inside the box

Sloping sides

Rollout drawers with sloping sides keep tall things stable yet still let you see all the way to the back of the shelf. These are good for nesting pots and pans or storing different-size items on the same shelf.

Low sides

Lower sides (3 in. is typical) work well for smaller items such as canned goods and spices. The low sides make reading labels easier.

High sides

Shelves with higher sides all around (6 in. tall rather than the typical 3 in.) are ideal for tippy plastic storage containers or stacks of plates.

Building a slew of identical drawer boxes is easier, but having a variety gives you more versatility. Think about what you’re going to store and build the boxes to suit your needs.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 2: Use the right slides

There are a dozen kinds of drawer slides out there, but if you want to keep shopping and installation simple, stick to these two types:

Roller slides glide on plastic wheels. They’re inexpensive, a cinch to install (it takes about two minutes) and nearly impossible to screw up. You’ll find them at home centers under various names including side mount, under mount and bottom mount. Most are rated to carry 35 to 100 lbs. For heavy-duty rollouts holding items such as canned goods, use slides rated for at least 100 lbs. The big disadvantage: Most roller slides extend only three-quarters of their length—the back of the drawer stays in the cabinet.

Ball-bearing slides glide on tiny bearings. The big advantage of these slides is that they extend fully, giving you complete access to everything in the drawer. They’re about three times the cost of roller slides, and they’re usually rated to carry 75 to 100 lbs., but you can get 200-lb. versions for about $40 a pair. Home centers carry ball-bearing slides, but you’ll find a wider variety at woodworkershardware.com. The big disadvantage: They’re fussy to install. If your drawer is a hair too big or small, these slides won’t glide.

Tip: Make drawer boxes about 1/32 in. smaller than you need. It’s easy to shim behind a slide with layers of masking tape to make up for a too-small drawer. It’s a lot harder to deal with a drawer that’s too wide.

Slide Out Pantry Slide Types

Ball-bearing slides cost more and are harder to install, but they can extend fully.

Roller slides are inexpensive and easy to install, but they only extend three-quarters.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 3: Make the most of skinny spaces

Narrow pull out pantry shelves

In a small kitchen with little storage space, you can make even narrow filler spaces work harder by installing a vertical pegboard rollout. Shown is the 434 Series 6-in. Base Filler with stainless steel panel, about $315, from Rev-A-Shelf.com.

Kitchen designer Mary Jane Pappas typically recommends 18- to 30-in.-wide rollout drawers for cabinets: “Any larger and they’re too clumsy. Any smaller and too much of the space is used by the rollouts themselves.” But there is one type of rollout that makes good use of narrow spaces, even those only 3 to 6 in. wide. Pappas says that pull out pantry shelves—single tall, narrow drawers with long, shelves, drawers, baskets or even pegboard—can be an efficient way to put skinny spaces to work.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 4: Start at the bottom

The most useful rollout shelves and drawers are the ones closest to the floor since these eliminate the most awkward bending and crouching. If want to limit your time and money investment, you’ll get the most bang for your buck by retrofitting these areas first.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 5: Store-bought rollouts—what to look for

Medium-weight

IKEA’s Rationell Variera pullout basket (out $20; ikea.com) works well for medium-weight items. Try these clever IKEA hacks elsewhere in the home, too!

Heavy-weight

The Lynk Rollout Undersink Drawer (about $65 at home centers) can take heavy use.

Light-weight

Rubbermaid’s Slide Out Undersink Basket (No. 80360; about $20 at home centers) handles light items.

You can spend as little as $10 for a simple wire rollout basket or as much as $100. So what’s the difference?

Look for rollouts with quality hardware. Second-rate slides and rollers can sag or seize up under sacks of flour and pots and pans. Examine the slides to check whether they’re roller slides (which extend only three-quarters of their length) or ball-bearing (which extend fully). Ball-bearing slides tend to support heavier items and roll more smoothly.

Choose sturdy, chrome-plated steel rollouts for heavier items. Steel rollouts come in different gauge metals. Before ordering online, shop around at different retailers so you can physically compare the weight and density of the steel used by different manufacturers.

Epoxy-coated wire rollouts and plastic inserts work fine for light-duty items, but they have a tendency to crack, bend and scratch if packed with heavy loads like canned goods.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 6: Watch for obstacles

Protruding hinge

Make sure sides don’t collide with hinges or adjacent doors.

Every cabinetmaker has a story about the rollout that wouldn’t roll out but instead collided with something. When you’re measuring for the spacer width, watch out for protruding hinges and doors that don’t open fully or that protrude into the cabinet opening.

Confessions of a Rollaholic

I’m addicted to rollouts. Last winter I replaced every single cabinet shelf in our kitchen with rollouts, custom-designed for whatever needed storing. I’ve built about 15 more for my shop. I’ve learned that the key to a useful rollout is to decide what you want it to hold and design it around that purpose. These vertical rollouts in my shop are dedicated to jugs, cans and jars of finishes and solvents. Before starting, I carefully laid out exactly what would go on each shelf on the workbench to get the sizes and spacing just right. They work fantastic.
Travis Larson (aka Shop Rat)

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 7: Avoid mistakes with a story stick

Make a story stick

Mark the exact widths of your rollout parts on a stick. That eliminates the math—and the mistakes.

Close-up of story stick

Mark the roller part sizes on the stick.

The most obvious way to size rollout parts is to measure the opening of the cabinet and then do the math. But that’s a recipe for mistakes because it’s easy to forget to subtract one of the components (like the width of the slides or the drawers) from the overall measurement. So try this: Forget the math and mark your measurements on a piece of scrap wood. It’s a great visual aid that helps you prevent mistakes and having to walk between your kitchen and your shop constantly to double-check measurements.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 8: Divide up wide spaces

Divided cabinet

Adding a divider creates 12 handy pull out pantry shelves instead of six big awkward ones.

If the cabinet is more than 30 in. wide, consider installing two narrower rollouts side by side rather than a single wide one. This means some extra building work and buying more slides, but the smaller rollouts will operate more smoothly and easily. Wider shelves and drawers tend to bind or rack as you slide them in and out.

Success story:
My daughter called her pantry “the black hole” because she could never find what she needed on the deep shelves. I replaced the five full-width shelves with two six-drawer stacks of sturdy full-extension drawers from IKEA, supported by interior center panels. We spaced the drawers carefully for the types of items she planned to store. Finishing touches include soft-close dampers on the drawers and iron-on edge-banding for the birch plywood panels.
Jim Wagener, Ashfield, Massachussets

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 9: Baltic birch is best

Wood choices

Baltic birch is the best choice because it doesn’t have voids.

Cabinetmakers love Baltic birch plywood for rollouts because the edges look great. Unlike standard hardwood plywood, Baltic birch never has voids in the inner core. It may not be labeled “Baltic birch” at home centers, but you’ll be able to identify it by comparing it with other hardwood plywood in the racks. It’ll have more and thinner laminations in the plywood core. The biggest disadvantages of using Baltic birch are that it costs more than standard hardwood plywood and can be harder to find. A 4 x 8-ft. sheet will run you $65 compared with $50 for standard hardwood plywood. If your home center doesn’t carry it, try a traditional lumberyard.

Pull Out Drawers for Cabinets Tip 10: Keep drawer boxes simple

Rollout box parts

Keep boxes simple with butt joints. Brads and glue make them plenty strong.

All the drawer boxes in my shop are super simple: butt-joint corners and glued-on bottoms. No rabbets, dadoes or dovetails. They don’t look very impressive, but they’ve held up for years. So I built my kitchen rollouts the same way. If simple boxes can carry tools and hardware, I figure they can stand up to kitchen use, too.
Gary Wentz, Senior Editor

Field editor tip:
Consider having drawer boxes made to your exact specs and then install them yourself. The average cost of a solid maple, dovetailed single drawer that we order is about $35. Compared with buying material and finishing it yourself—not to mention the dovetail joints—you can’t beat it. And it looks much nicer.
Steve Zubik, NestWoodworking, Northfield, Minnesota

Rollout Ideas and Plans: Simple Pantry Rollouts

A great way to get more storage space in even the smallest kitchen is by putting those narrow spaces and filler areas to work with pull out pantry shelves. We have two great projects to choose from. One is a handle-free version that lets you line up more than one rollout bin in a single cabinet. The other is a more traditional, three-drawer pantry rollout that reuses your existing cabinet door and hardware. Both versions make it possible for you to use every cubic inch of storage space in your kitchen. Type “kitchen storage” in the Search Box above for more articles on rollouts.

Rollout Ideas and Plans: Classic Rollouts Plus a Trash Center

Base cabinets have the least convenient storage in your kitchen. This article will show you how to bring everything in your cabinets within easy reach by retrofitting your base cabinets with classic rollout shelves. It also shows how to construct a special rollout for recycling and trash without using expensive bottom-mount hardware. The article gives you step-by-step instructions for measuring, building the rollout drawer and its carrier, attaching the drawer slides, and mounting the unit in the cabinet.

Rollout Ideas and Plans: Rollouts in Underused Locations

The space under sinks is often overlooked, but it’s prime real estate for rollouts. This article gives step-by-step instructions for how to build two types of customizable rollout trays that fit around and below plumbing pipes, garbage disposers and other obstacles beneath your sink. These rollouts transform that “I’m not sure what’s under there” storage space into an organized and efficient location for cleaning supplies that lets you see everything you’ve got in one glance.

Rollout Ideas and Plans: Rollouts at Ankle Level

Turn wasted toe-kick cavities into clever flat storage space for serving trays, cutting boards and baking pans. This article shows you how to construct self-contained rollout shelving units that you assemble in your shop and then just slip into place beneath your existing cabinets. The article steps you through measuring and building the shelf and carrier units, and then installing them in your kitchen. Even if you’ve never built or installed a drawer before, this article will show you how.

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Hey guys and gals! We are neck deep in building our own custom IKEA kitchen! If you want to read all about our on-going IKEA series, start here. Today I’m going to talk about one of the ways we are taking our box IKEA kitchen and making changes to it so it’s more custom and fits our specific needs.

Instead of the basic insert options that IKEA offers, we decided to take it up a notch and install higher quality, more heavy duty inserts to accommodate our hard-working family. Here are two of the IKEA options that we scrapped for more industrial strength and aesthetically-pleasing options:

All three of our major insert upgrades are by a company called Rev-a-Shelf (this is not a sponsored post but I will link each product to an amazon affiliate link).

Here is our new Rev-a-Shelf Lazy Susan:

We installed this exact same Lazy Susan in our old house and were so impressed with it that we bought it again.

The Lazy Susan that IKEA offers is plastic and doesn’t hold much weight (26 lbs per shelf to be exact). We sprung for this metal Rev-a-Shelf one to help support the weight of our cast iron that we prefer to cook with. (This upgraded one can hold up to 84 lbs per shelf).

This Lazy Susan comes in a few sizes, so I purchased the largest one that would fit in the IKEA corner base cabinet. The exact center of the base cabinet on top does not line up with where the cross pieces are, so we had to get creative and install a 1×4 across the center for the new lazy susan to attach to.

Though it is possible to install after your kitchen is complete, it’s much easier to install while you assembling your cabinet boxes. Our corner cabinet and lazy susan were the first things we assembled and installed when we began our IKEA kitchen cabinet installation.

Here’s our new Lazy Susan in-use. We’ve got a couple pots and pans with lids and the lids tend to be cumbersome and annoying to store.

I took some Command Hooks and stuck them to the underside of the top of the corner cabinet and hung the lids from them. Now the lids are easily accessible yet out of the way.

Our next upgrade we made from the basic IKEA pull-outs were custom pull-out base cabinet organizers.

We upgraded to some heavy-duty wooden pull-out organizers to be used for our spices.

Our cabinet boxes are 12″ wide. When I ordered these pull-out organizers we hadn’t yet assembled the base cabinet boxes, so I ordered the 11″ wide pull-outs. Well, once the boxes were assembled I realized that the inside of each box was less than 11″ wide and our pull-outs didn’t fit. Rev-a-Shelf easily exchanged them for us and we got the 8″ wide pull-out organizers. They fit perfectly.

Installing these pull-outs is straightforward and easy enough. They come with a template that spells out exactly how to install them. They come fully assembled and require only a handful of screws to install.

Having all of our spices and baking supplies ready and available right next to either side of our stove is amazing. It makes cooking so much easier. We *try* to generally keep the baking supplies on the left side and the cooking spices/supplies on the right side.

I love that the top is wide-open. I put all our most used spices such as pepper, salt, garlic powder, etc on the top shelf so when we pull open our pull-out organizer they are super easy to grab.

Our final Rev-a-Shelf upgrade in our new IKEA kitchen is probably my favorite – an Appliance Lift!

This was a fun splurge and I am so happy we bought it!

This appliance lift allows you to keep your mixer (in our case our KitchenAid) off your counter when you aren’t using it. Two great things about this appliance lift are 1) it stores your mixer in the cabinet but makes it super easy to access it when you need it, 2) you add your own top to it so you can install it in pretty much any size cabinet.

The appliance lift was a little more confusing to install, mainly because the one we bought didn’t come with any instructions. I googled and found a pdf online with the install instructions though so that was pretty much a non-issue. It is screwed into the cabinet with multiple screws and feels very secure.

Once we lift our KitchenAid, we just plug it right into the plug outlet next to the cabinet. This is one reason we installed it in an end cabinet. We opted to not install a plug outlet inside the cabinet and leave it permanently plugged in because I’m weird about stuff like that and it seemed like a fire hazard.

We are going to add a nice butcher-block top to our Appliance Lift, so this white top is just temporary. Also, you may notice screws behind the back of the mixer. If the mixer shifts further back than this, it hits the counter as we lower it back into the cabinet. When we add our new butcher block I’ll add little blocks or something just to make sure the mixer doesn’t shift too far back and potentially crack our countertop. Other than that, this lift is perfection. Just make sure your mixer doesn’t shift too far back on it.

I was worried about how the IKEA hinges and the lift were going to work together, and luckily the Appliance Lift installs lower than the IKEA hinge. We did have to swap out basic hinges for the 153 degree hinges so that the door opens further out to accommodate for the Appliance Lift when in use.

Also, one additional small change we had to make on the IKEA hinges was to install the door damper on the bottom hinge instead of the top hinge. This has not made any difference in the performance of the cabinet door.

Those are the three Rev-a-Shelf upgrades we made to our new IKEA Kitchen. We love that they are a lot more durable and also give the kitchen a more custom feel. If you want to check them out, here are links:

Rev-a-Shelf Lazy Susan

Rev-a-Shelf pull-out base cabinet organizers

Rev-a-Shelf Appliance Lift

Here are all the posts in our IKEA kitchen series:

Building your own custom IKEA kitchen || the planning & ordering process

Assembling and installing IKEA Sektion kitchen cabinets

Adding plug outlets inside IKEA pantries || IKEA sektion renovation

Pull-outs & Lazy Susans || Custom Organization in our IKEA Kitchen

Everything you want to know about building a custom IKEA kitchen island

Create Custom Canned Goods Storage from IKEA Cabinets

Creating a wrap-around cabinet & moving the dishwasher

Run Cables in-wall with a PVC Cable Drop

Installing IKEA quarts countertops – Frosty Carrina

How to install hardware like a Pro – IKEA kitchen renovation

Installing new pendant lighting in our custom IKEA kitchen

Start at the VERY beginning of our WHOLE-HOUSE renovation:

This post contains amazon affiliate links

Thanks for reading! Have a wonderful week!

Here are links to all our products:

Building the Perfect Pantry for Your Home

The pantry is an important part of a working household. For a lot of reasons, a badly functioning pantry is frustrating. When a pantry is disorganized, we tend to purchase food we don’t need, and forget about the food we do have! Food items that are visible, easily accessible, and tidy, in a well-organized pantry will keep your food budget on track and your house running smoothly. At Closets Plus, we have years of experience designing, building, and installing custom cabinetry. We can help you design a pantry that lines up entirely with your food storage needs for your home. Whether you’re starting from scratch with a new home, remodel, or looking to update an existing pantry, it’s important to know what you need out of your pantry to get the most out of it! We’ve put together some points for you to consider while you work on the design for your perfect pantry.

Consider your Space
The ultimate deciding factor of your pantry layout is your space in and around your kitchen. While it’s ideal to have as much space as you’d like, a small well-designed pantry is always better than a large, badly designed pantry. Take a look at the layout of your kitchen and consider the flow: what areas do you usually use for food prep? Which spaces are generally dedicated to clean up, or cooking? How many pantry areas do you need to reflect the flow of your kitchen? (Did you know that you could have more than one?!) Instead of areas where you primarily focus on clean up, you’ll want your pantry to be easily accessible from the areas where you prepare food and cook, even if it’s not necessarily in the kitchen. You’ll also want to consider where you typically load and unload groceries. It’s important to have an area near your pantry to load and unload items, as this will keep things organized and convenient. Another thing to think on is how much you’re planning to store in your pantry. This is often based on family size and how often you like to shop. Everyone’s kitchen layout, cooking styles, and habits are unique so consider your kitchen space and how you use it. Once you have an idea of where your pantry will fit best in or around your kitchen and how much you need to store in it, you can begin to plan the layout of the storage itself.

The Rules of Effective Storage
When designing a pantry, the layout should follow a few key attributes: convenience, visibility, and accessibility. In other words, your pantry should be laid out in a way that you are able to find your items easily and within reach, and you shouldn’t have to move anything out of the way to find what you are looking for. When designing a pantry, convenience is about more than just being able to see and reach your food items; a conveniently organized pantry is based on what you’ll use most. If you are a baker, not only will you want your pantry to be located near the space you will be prepping to bake, but you’ll also want your pantry to be laid out in a way that prioritizes your baking supplies. In short, this will ensure that food items don’t expire in the pantry, and that you will have a pantry that is useful and efficient. These rules are essential for any effective and useful storage area, but are especially important when storing food. Designing your pantry with convenience, visibility, and accessibility in mind will not only save you time, it will save you money as you won’t keep food past it’s expiration date or lose and forget items because they’re out of sight or inaccessible.

Basic Pantry Layouts
Now that you have an idea of your pantry requirements, you can consider which layout suits your home best. At Closets Plus, we custom build all pantry layouts to suit your needs. Basic pantry layouts include reach-in, pull-out, and walk-in designs. Each layout has it’s own benefits; here are some details on each layout.

The Reach-In Pantry
Reach-in pantries are most useful when they are built with shallow shelves. By keeping cabinet depth to about 16” you won’t have to worry about losing items at the backs of shelves. It might be tempting to build the shelves deeper to fit more, but to stick with the benefits and rules of effective storage it’s better to keep them shallow. For a deeper reach-in pantry, Closets Plus can extend the depth to about 20” – 24”. With deeper shelving, you might find that bins and baskets come in handy to keep like items together so you can move the entire bin to your prep area.

The Pull-Out Pantry
The pull-out pantry is a convenient layout and a great use of space in small kitchens. Essentially, a pull-out pantry is a deep pantry storage space that is kept sideways in a cabinet. Outwardly it looks like a regular cabinet, but when it’s pulled out, stored food items can be easily viewed from one or both sides. Depending on how much space can be allocated to pull-out pantries, the amount of space for storage could be smaller than other pantry layouts. Those that do their food shopping more often will find this layout the most useful. Efficient and compact, the pull-out pantry follows the rules of effective storage by ensuring all items are easy to see and conveniently within reach.

The Walk-In Pantry
The walk-in pantry is like a walk-in closet for your food storage. This layout is most beneficial to those that store large or bulk quantities of foodstuffs with infrequent, large shopping trips. While it’s still important to follow the rules of effective storage with shallow cabinetry and an easy to see and access cabinet layout, there’s more space to store bigger items. With the walk-in layout, there is extra room to have a customized variety of cabinets, shelving, L-Shelves, pull-out trays, baskets and drawers. Because of the extra space needed for the walk-in layout, this style of pantry is often built farther from the kitchen. When this is the case, homeowners might benefit from adding a second, smaller pantry that is located closer to, or inside of the kitchen.

With an idea of what your storage needs and habits are and our professional expertise, you can have a pantry that sets you and your family up for success. In addition to the planning and building of your pantry, Closets Plus can further help you stay organized with adjustable shelving, storage containers like baskets and drawers, and industry insights into design. At Closets Plus, we have years of experience designing, building, and installing custom cabinetry, let’s get started on the perfect pantry for your home!

Works Cited: http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/kitchen.pantry.htm#.V_wJUpMrKV7