Do it yourself floors

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I’m a little envious of all you people who have gorgeous new bathrooms. You know–the newly renovated or newly built homes that come with that big ‘ole jacuzzi tub that you never use but sure are glad you have “just in case” you ever want to hop in. You don’t have stale wallpaper. Oh–and your floor is ceramic or marble instead of crusty ‘ole peel n’ sticks vinyl.

The rest of us have to use tips like these to transform our bathrooms on a budget:

Now……This is what my bathroom used to look like!

I know….I still can’t believe it, either!!

Horrific, wasn’t it??

I still think wallpaper should be banned. It’s a you-know-what to remove. But this pretty shade of Sherwin Williams Sea Salt paint was worth the trouble!

Before DIY’ing it, I’m embarrassed to say that we lived with a doily shower curtain up at the window for at least 6 months.

I know–total ghetto fabulous.

But after a lot of hard work, the result was astounding.

If you’ve got a bathroom that needs a lot of work and is outdated, here are some thrifty tips to help you transform it on a budget!

5 Tips for a Cheap DIY Bathroom

So someone mentioned recently that they had PINK TILE in their bathroom when they moved in. YIKES. Do you also have an eye sore in your bathroom? For me, it was this turquoise shower. See it over there, with the outdated brassy door??

Now, in a recent post, I told you that I wish everything in my house could be turquoise. True enough. But my SHOWER?? Um, yeah, that’s a bit much. However,when we moved in, that’s what was here. And we don’t have tons of money yet to rip it out and install a new shower.

The solution? Decorated around your eye sore.

I simply love Sherwin Williams Sea Salt, but thankfully, it also compliments the “who-in-the-world-chooses-a-turquoise-shower-stall” shower stall. Now it’s no longer an eye sore. 🙂

TIP# 2 Just because it SAYS it’s a robe hook…….

…doesn’t mean you have to hang your robes on it. Have you seen the price of decent towel bars?! Expensive. So grab some cute robe hooks and toss your towels on it instead. Trust me, they rarely fall off. And for, like $12, you’ve got something cute to hang your towels from instead of paying double or triple for a towel bar.

TIP #3 Unleash your inner photographer.

This is seriously one of the cheapest ideas. First, let me say that I’m terrible about decorating my walls. If you were to come over to my house, you would see huge blank walls of nothing. I take tons of pics but rarely do they end up getting printed.

Don’t be like me 🙂

Go take some amazing pictures of flowers or landscapes (read my 10 tips for creating awesome wall art) , or whatever floats your boat, and then print them. Pick up some cheap frames from the thrift store. And then grace your walls with all your awesome shots!

Those 2 pics to the left?? Yep, I took them myself and framed them. Like 10 years ago. And I’m still rockin’ ’em…. 🙂

If you read my post 10 Tips to Create Awesome DIY Floral Art, you’ll be able to take some really awesome shots to get framed. Here’s one I took recently and plan to blow up. If you take shots like these, bathroom wall art would be super cheap.

TIP#4 Get it all covered!

If you have ugly peel-and-stick tiles like me, but can’t afford to upgrade to tile yet, you’ve got to find a way to deal with whatcha got. Rugs will be your best friend. The more you can cover up, the better! And be sure to choose rugs that don’t contrast with your floor. Get something that blends in so that when people walk in, they don’t turn away disgusted. LOL

This plush rug I got from Home Goods covers up half of the little floor on this side. I chose white because it blended best.

But if you have the money, I whole-heartedly recommend SnapStone flooring to cover old vinyl tile. It’s a real porcelain tile that has a rubber tray on the back that allows you to go right over your old vinyl flooring. I’m pretty sure the two layers of vinyl I have here has some asbestos. Instead of removing it, which could be more expensive to hire a professional to do, I just tiled over it with SnapStone (see my kids’ bathroom makeover to see how it’s done). I’ll be posting on my YouTube channel soon a full-tutorial on how to install SnapStone flooring to cover a vinyl floor, so don’t forget to subscribe so you don’t miss when that video comes out soon.

But regarding cost, SnapStone can be expensive. If you have the budget, go for it. If not, stick with rugs until you’ve saved up money for it.

TIP #5 If you only did one thing in your bathroom, do this:

You see this mirror? Okay, some of you that really love vintage things may “ooh” and “ahh” over it, but I had another reaction that was more along the lines of doubling over and holding my stomach. LOL

My real estate agent/friend gave me THE best tip for cheaply sprucing up any bathroom.

And that is: change out the mirror.

I went to Home Goods and chose a mirror for $60 that traditionally goes in the living room or something, and put it up in the bathroom. It was a WORLD of difference! Doing that, with fresh white paint on the vanity (which didn’t get changed out), and it looks like a whole new bathroom!

The Bottom Line

This bathroom makeover only cost just under $200 for all the supplies/materials. Just paint…..decorating around your eye sore……and covering up the old floors can make a world of difference. Just think outside the box a little 🙂

If you want to read more about some of the other crazy work that I had to do in this bathroom, you can see the original post here.

I Also Made Over My Kids’ Bathroom!

Since doing my master bathroom, I have did my kids’ bathroom makeover on a budget. You won’t believe the before and after!



See My Readers’ Bathroom Makeovers

Here at Thrift Diving, my readers and I have done room challenges and have made over even more bathrooms. Check them out!

Robin’s $25 Bathroom Makeover Pam’s Budget Master Bath Makeover

Join the Next 30-Day Room Challenge

Do you have an outdated bathroom that you are struggling with? Considering joining my 30-Day Room Makeover Challenge (it’s free), where my readers and I band together and tackle one room in our house in 30 days. If your bathroom is a rat hole, now’s the time to do something about it :). LOL

Download the 5 freebies!

Thrift Diving inspires women to decorate, improve, and maintain their home themselves…using paint, power tools, and thrift stores! Use these 5 printables, checklists, and ebooks to get started!

Introducing easy-fit, super-stylish flooring for your home

Why waste money on hiring someone to lay your floor when you can do it yourself, quickly and easily? Introducing our new, easy-to-fit, super-stylish flooring from world market leaders KronoSpan.

As the UK’s first online supplier of the revolutionary Krono Xonic vinyl flooring, we’re proud to bring you 8 different, stylish finishes that can be used throughout your home, from bathrooms to kitchens, and from living rooms to dining rooms.

Choose Rocky Mountain Way for a stunning combination of dark and light wood-effect planks

Quick & easy to fit

One of the most incredible things about this flooring product, is how simple it is to lay. It really is that easy, that even the most inexperienced DIY novice can do it. Each plank of toughened vinyl simply clicks together to create a durable floor that is 100% waterproof, making it ideal for bathrooms, kitchens and just about any other room you wish to use it in.

There are no messy adhesives required and no need for underlay – simply click and lay on top of your existing floorboards or plasterboard. And you needn’t worry about an uneven finish. The flooring is self-levelling, and will rest in a natural position in no time at all, leaving you with a stylish and hardwearing floor that’s easy to maintain.

Watch this quick video and you’ll see exactly how easy it is to fit:

Tools you’ll need:

  • Saw or carpet cutter
  • Hammer
  • Rubber tapping block
  • Pencil
  • Ruler or design square
  • Tape measure

Easy to maintain

As well as looking incredibly stylish, this flooring also has some other great features:

  • A tough vinyl outer layer, making it highly resistant to scratches and stains
  • Anti-bacterial coating, meaning you only need a mop and some soapy water to keep it clean
  • Provides a waterproof layer and can be used in bathrooms and kitchens with confidence
  • Integrated silencing pads help to reduce the noise from steps and impacts, keeping your home an oasis of calm
  • Insulating layer, designed to keep warmth in, helping to reduce your energy bills
  • Can be used with underfloor heating

Our True Grit finish is both stylish and hardwearing

Super stylish

Our Krono Xonic flooring comes in 8 different finishes:

  • Columbus
  • Goldrush
  • Pearly Gates
  • Pennsylvania
  • Rocky Mountain Way
  • Tortuga
  • True Grit
  • Victoriana – the perfect low-cost, easy maintenance

Victoriana is the perfect low-cost alternative to tiles and can be used to achieve a more classical style

What’s more, if you feel it’s time for a change, or you’re moving house, you can simply unclick and remove your flooring with minimal fuss.

As a high quality product that’s built to last, we are happy to offer a full 30 year guarantee (5 year guarantee if used in commercial premises).

That’s the sales pitch over and done with…why not try it for yourself today?

1. Engineered Wood Planks

When you want the natural beauty and warmth of real wood flooring, but not the hassles of sanding and finishing, it’s hard to beat engineered wood. This prefinished product comes in wide, long planks that snap together with precisely milled tongue-and-groove joints. There’s no gluing or nailing. The 5/8-inch-thick planks simply float over a thin foam-rubber underlayment.

Engineered planks are composed of all wood, but they’re not solid wood. Let me explain: Each plank is a laminated sandwich of wood, similar to plywood. Most planks are made up of three layers: The bottom surface is a single sheet of thin wood veneer; in the middle, running perpendicular to the bottom veneer, are wooden cross-bands that measure about 1 inch wide and 5 to 7 inches long. On top is a prefinished surface of 1/8- to 3/16-inch-thick hardwood.

Engineered planks come in three basic styles: one-, two- and three-strip, which refer to the number of hardwood strips adhered to the top surface. The three-strip product most closely resembles traditional hardwood-strip flooring, but many homeowners prefer the wide-plank look of one-strip flooring.

Another big advantage of engineered-plank flooring is that it’s available in a wide array of colors and wood species. Kahr’s, the Swedish flooring manufacturer that introduced engineered planks to the U.S., offers 42 colors and 17 wood species, including many exotics such as Brazilian Cherry, Merbau and Wenge. Prices vary depending on the manufacturer and hardwood species, but expect to pay on average between $4 and $8 per square foot for engineered wood planks.

2. Floating Vinyl Sheet

Resilient vinyl sheet flooring has been around for decades, and is still a popular–and affordable–option for kitchens, baths and laundry rooms. Over the years, the product has evolved to become extremely DIY-friendly.

The first generation of sheet vinyl had to be fully adhered to the entire subfloor with mastic, which was no picnic to trowel down. Then came perimeter-bonded sheet flooring, which only needed to be glued down along the edges. And finally, today, there are floating sheet vinyl floors that aren’t adhered to the subfloor at all.

These new, easy-to-install floating vinyl sheets are much thicker and more durable than standard vinyl, resulting in a floor that not only lasts longer, but also provides a soft, cushiony walking surface.

Installation consists of six basic steps: 1) Remove the shoe molding from around the room, 2) make a paper template of the room, 3) set the template on the flooring and mark around its perimeter, 4) cut the flooring to size using a utility knife, 5) lay the flooring onto the subfloor, and 6) replace the shoe molding.

That’s all there is to it. No glue, no staples. Some premium vinyl sheets, such as Tarkett’s Fiberfloor, are so thick and lie so flat you can actually use them in the middle of the room, similar to an area rug.

Sheet vinyl flooring comes in 12-foot-wide rolls, resulting in seamless coverage in all but the very largest rooms. Prices start at about $2 per square foot. Note that 12-inch-square peel-and-stick vinyl tiles, which start at about $1 per square foot, are also available for easy DIY installation.

3. Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is similar in many ways to engineered wood: Both are floating floors made up of tongue-and-groove planks that snap together. And both floors come in various widths, and dozens of colors and wood-grain patterns. The primary difference between the two is that the top surface of laminate flooring is made of–surprise!–plastic laminate, not hardwood. Also, laminate flooring comes in slightly shorter planks, usually about 47 inches long.

The big advantage laminate flooring has over any real-wood floor is that it’s extremely resistant to stains, scratches, fading, damage and wear. In fact, Pergo, a premium laminate-floor manufacturer, offers a 30-year warranty on some of its products.

While laminate wood-grain planks make up a vast majority of sales, plastic laminate squares, which mimic ceramic tile, are also available.

There are several companies making laminate flooring, so prices (and quality) range all over the place. I’ve seen some low-end products for as cheap as 78 cents per square foot, but expect at least $4 to $6 per square foot on average for premium laminate flooring.

4. Carpet Squares

I wouldn’t recommend any homeowner try to install their own wall-to-wall carpeting. First, just getting the carpeting into the room is a huge job. Second, precisely cutting it to size takes experience–one wrong cut can ruin the entire piece.

However, even novice DIYers can quickly and easily carpet a room if they use carpet squares. These individual precut squares each measure nearly 20 in. sq. And they’re installed with one-sided adhesive “dots,” which stick the carpet squares to each other, but not to the subfloor.

One 3-inch-diameter dot is placed at each corner of a carpet square, with the sticky side up. The next square is set in place tight against the first square, and then it’s pressed down onto the adhesive dots. In the end, the result is a floating floor of carpet squares all stuck together at the corners by adhesive dots.

The advantage carpet squares have over wall-to-wall, besides being easier to install, is that if the flooring gets badly stained, you can easily replace the damaged squares without taking up the whole floor.

Carpet squares come in a dizzying array of colors, patterns and styles. And, you can mix and match them to create a truly original floor. One company, FLOR, has more than 60 styles of carpet squares, and each style comes in five to 10 different colors. They’re priced per square, starting at about $5 and going as high as $26 apiece.

5. Cork Planks

The popularity of cork flooring has grown exponentially in recent years, and it’s easy to see why: Cork is attractive, durable, relatively affordable and 100 percent renewable, since it’s harvested from the bark of live oak trees. It’s also soft underfoot and has superior sound-deadening properties.

Prefinished cork flooring comes in both tiles and planks. Most tiles must be glued down, but there’s a new generation of engineered cork planks that simply snap together to create a floating floor. The ½-inch-thick planks must be installed over a thin underlayment, but some come with a cork underlayment adhered to the underside of each plank, which greatly simplifies installation.

Another benefit of cork is that it readily accepts stain and topcoat finishes. One manufacturer, DuroDesign, has a line of floating cork planks that’s available in 54 colors and six different patterns. Each plank is 12 inch wide x 36 inch long. Cost depends on the amount of flooring ordered: over 200 square feet, $7.50 per square foot; between 51 and 200 square feet, $9.50 per square foot; less than 50 square feet, about $11 per square foot.

Cheap Bathroom Flooring Ideas

Spend a few minutes in any flooring showroom or the flooring aisles at the home center and you’ll find there are more choices than ever. Even better, you’ll find plenty of cheap bathroom flooring ideas to create the look and function you’ve always wanted, plus stay on track with the budget. Here’s a look at some favorite budget-friendly bathroom flooring ideas.

Ceramic and Porcelain Tile

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Thanks to their creative potential and vast array of colors, patterns, shapes, and sizes, ceramic and porcelain tiles can’t be beat when it comes to cheap bathroom flooring ideas. Both materials stand up to all the splashes and humidity of your bathroom. With clay-base bodies high-fired to become hardy tiles and impervious glasslike coatings called glazes, both ceramic and porcelain tiles are long-lasting and easy to maintain. Although porcelain tends to be harder than ceramic, both are great choices for the bathroom, and there’s no shortage of cheap bathroom flooring ideas with both materials.

Look for affordable ceramic and porcelain tiles for as low as $1 per square foot; mosaic tiles start at less than $3 per square foot. Keep in mind that mosaic tiles are an especially great option in terms of safety because the multiple grout lines make it slip-resistant.

Fresh Ideas for Bathroom Floors

Stone Tile

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If you want a timeless look, stone tile flooring lends an air of permanence and elegance. You’ll be delighted to find a number of cheap flooring ideas for stone tiles, whether it’s polished marble, slate, tumbled limestone, or another type of stone. Like ceramic and porcelain, you’ll find tiles in a wide variety of shades, shapes, and sizes.

Speak with a flooring dealer to find out if the stone you’re considering requires sealing (not all do) and, if so, how often you’ll need to reapply the finish. Quality sealers fill pits and spaces in the stone to make it more resistant to water and preserve the look. Slate and travertine are two types of flooring that are commonly available for less than $2 per square foot. Gorgeous marble tiles can be found for under $5 per square foot.


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Cork features natural properties that make it a warm cushion for your feet — a bonus when it comes to cheap bathroom flooring ideas for bare feet. Cork is harvested from the bark of cork trees, which grows back quickly, so you can feel good about this environmentally sustainable product.

However, much like wood flooring, if your cork floor isn’t sealed properly, it can absorb water and become permanently damaged. Make sure the cork floor you purchase is recommended and warranted for use in a bathroom, and have it finished with at least five coats of clear sealer. The perimeter must be caulked with silicone so no moisture can seep in around the edges. Finally, never let water stand for long periods on a cork floor; wipe it up immediately. Install a quality air vent in your bathroom, and turn it on whenever you bathe.

You’ll find lots of options for colors and natural patterns in cork tiles and planks with prices as low as $2 per square foot.


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Today’s vinyl is more attractive and durable than ever. It’s comfortable underfoot and provides great water resistance, especially in sheet form. Luxury vinyl tiles and planks are available, too, and all come in an array of colors, styles, and patterns, including lines that closely mimic wood and stone. Luxury vinyl planks that look like wood start at less than $2 per square foot.

  • By Jan Soults Walker


The Best and Worst Flooring for the Bathroom

Residential flooring has certainly come a long way from the days of avocado green shag pile carpet and faux brick linoleum. However, with so many options available it can be hard to decide on the right flooring for your space, particularly in the bathroom. You want the best bathroom flooring that will complement your décor and hold up under the unique demands of a wet and humid atmosphere, aggravated by the high level of heating usually found in the room.

Our expert technicians are here for you Schedule Online Today

Here we have rated some of the most common types of residential flooring, starting with the worst and building up to the best for bathrooms and other damp spaces.

10. Carpet

Not only is a carpet in the bathroom virtually impossible to keep clean. Even worse, it will collect condensation and moisture down to the padding. Thanks to a combination of moisture and heating, mold and mildew will thrive, making your floor constantly damp and giving the whole room a dank, musty smell.

9. Solid Wood

Solid wood flooring might look fantastic, but it is never recommended for bathroom flooring. Parquet and tongue and groove floors are particularly ill suited for a damp bathroom; excess moisture will eventually cause the wood to warp and crack.

8. Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring that has glued-in seams is actually not a bad choice for a bathroom, as the glue prevents water from getting into the cracks between floorboards. Some laminate, however, simply locks into place; you don’t want this in your bathroom. Water can seep into the seams, causing the under layer of the floor to blister and warp.

7. Engineered Wood

Engineered wood is better than laminate, because its base is made of sturdier plywood, which resists more water. You probably would not want to install engineered wood in a frequently used bathroom with a shower, but for a guest powder room or half-bath it’s not a bad choice for bathroom flooring.

6. Linoleum Tile

Linoleum is an oil-based material, so it will repel water much better than hardwood or laminate. However, linoleum tile does have seams where moisture can seep in and cause warping or separation.

5. Sheet Linoleum

No seam means you will get the benefits of water-resistant linoleum without the problems of individual tiles.

4. Vinyl Tile

Simple to install and made from waterproof plastic, vinyl tile is a good choice for bathroom flooring. You do, however, still run into some potential problems because of the seams between tiles and there is really no way to seal them against moisture.

3. Ceramic or Stone Tile

Ceramic or stone tiles are an excellent choice for showers, pools and bathtubs. They are durable, water-resistant and look great. Grout seals the seams from moisture; some tiles and grout are available that are designed to repel water.

2. Sheet Vinyl

This is perhaps the best bathroom flooring option for a heavily used bathroom. You get all the durability of vinyl flooring without those troublesome seam issues.

1. Concrete

If you are reading this and picturing a bathroom floor that looks a lot like your driveway, hold that thought. Today, concrete flooring is an increasingly popular choice for bathroom flooring because it’s durable, can be sealed against water, and is available in a variety of colors and tints.

Flooring is often one of the biggest expenses of a remodel project. If you’re on a budget, choosing a type you can install yourself can save you money.

Check out these 7 easy DIY flooring options:

Peel-and-Stick Vinyl Tile Flooring

Self-adhesive vinyl tiles can be installed quickly and easily. The typical size is 12×12, so it’s easy to determine how many you will need. No special equipment is needed – just a tape measure and chalk line to find the room’s center, and a utility knife to cut the tiles.

Carpet Tile Flooring

If you want carpet flooring without the expense of professional installation, carpet squares can be a good choice. Not only are they easy to install, you have the option to create a custom pattern with your flooring. If one section of tile gets stained or damaged, you can just replace it. Carpet tiles are generally less expensive than rolled carpet, and the only tools you need for installation are a tape measure, chalk line and utility knife. If you choose peel-and-stick tiles, no adhesive is needed. For dry-back tiles, you’ll need either mastic or double-sided carpet tape.

Floating Vinyl Sheet Flooring

Vinyl sheet flooring can be installed by either gluing it down or “floating” it. A floating floor is easier to install, and there’s less mess because no adhesive is used. Starting with a clean, smooth subfloor is critical with vinyl sheeting, as well as getting accurate measurements of the room. In a large room, however, it’s best to use double-sided carpet tape around the edge of the room and under seams. A roll of butcher paper or craft paper to make a template of the room, which can make for more accurate cuts than just taking measurements. The vinyl can be cut with a utility knife.

Laminate Plank Flooring

Installing a laminate wood floor is easier than you might think. The tongue-and-groove planks just snap together. You’ll want to allow the planks to acclimate for at least 48 hours before you plan to install them. This will give them time to adjust to the temperature and humidity in the room. A roll of foam underlayment gets installed first. You’ll need either a power saw or hand saw to cut the planks, and you may need a hammer to help tap the planks together as you install them.

Engineered Wood Flooring

This installation has a higher difficulty level, but if you’re comfortable using power tools it’s still a manageable DIY task. Engineered wood planks have tongue-and-groove edges like laminate planks, but they’re usually adhered to the subfloor with a pneumatic brad nailer or floor stapler. Rather than foam underlayment, builder’s felt is typically used which is attached to the floor with a hammer tacker.

Painted Wood Flooring

Another easy, cost-effective flooring upgrade is to simply change the look of your existing floors. Painting a wood floor is not a weekend project because you have to allow at least 24 hours for each coat to dry, but you only need to be able to use sandpaper and a paint brush or roller. Before starting and after priming, you’ll need to sand the floor and vacuum it. You’ll apply 1 coat of oil-based primer, 3 thin coats of paint, and 1-2 coats of clear polyurethane. Let each coat dry for 24 hours before applying the next one.

Stained Concrete Flooring

Staining concrete floors will give you a more attractive look without the expense of carpet or wood. It will take 2-5 days to complete the project, depending on the size of your room. The process of acid-staining concrete is to apply the acid stain, allow it to work and then neutralize it. You’ll need to apply a sealer afterward, which is usually acrylic or polyurethane. Any marks on the concrete will show through, so it’s important to start with a clean floor. Instead of staining, another option is to apply an epoxy coating to the floor, which would be much like painting it.

No matter which room you need flooring for or what your skill level is, there’s sure to be a DIY flooring option that’s right for you.

Replacing the floors in your home is a surefire way to give your space a fresh, new look. At the same time, purchasing quality flooring and hiring an experienced professional can get pricey — fast.

If you’re craving a new floor and aren’t afraid to go DIY, attempting your own flooring project can save you lots of money. Of course, it can also turn into a huge mess if you don’t do all the research first. To save you from a major headache, TODAY Home consulted the pros to find out exactly what you need to know before starting your own DIY flooring project.

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DIY flooring isn’t for the faint of heart

Looking up DIY flooring ideas can be fun, but make no mistake: Installing a new floor isn’t easy. “Even relatively simple materials, like vinyl or laminate, require a lot of careful calculations and precision cutting for the patterns to be just right,” said Dan DiClerico, an expert at HomeAdvisor.

In other words, if you’re new to the DIY home renovation world, it may not be the best idea to start with flooring.

Then again, if you’re up for the challenge and don’t mind doing your research, learning how to install floors can pay off. “An intrepid DIYer who tackles the project could save hundreds, if not thousands of dollars,” DiClerico said.

Before you get ahead of yourself, though, make sure you spend plenty of time poring over how-to videos and deciding which type of flooring will work best in your home.

“Before you go on a tool-buying spree, you want to determine the type of floor you are laying and do your research. Go online and look at installation videos for the products you selected and talk to the supplier about the warranty conditions and get advice on how to deliver, treat and install the flooring product,” said professional contractor Mike Holmes, whose DIY Network series “Holmes & Holmes” airs Tuesdays at 9 p.m. ET/PT.

Here’s how to refinish your hardwood floor

Feb. 2, 201504:48

The right tools make a world of difference

Renovating a home is a lot like cooking: Without the proper tools and ingredients, your end results won’t look right. So once you select a type of flooring, it’s time to track down the right tools to install it. Here’s a quick cheat sheet of the tools you might need:

Laminate, vinyl and click hardwood:

  • Underlayment (unless the laminate comes with pre-attached padding), transition moldings
  • Jamb saw, table saw, miter saw, circular saw, jig saw, ¼-inch or ½-inch spacers
  • Hammer, 6-foot level, tapping block, tape measure
  • Moisture meter, 6 mm to 8 mm Polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier over concrete
  • Pencil, T-square, glue as needed, tape
  • Safety glasses, broom/vacuum


  • 5 gallon buckets
  • Straight edge, 6-foot level, speed square, spacers,
  • Undercut saw, wet saw (with diamond blade), angle-grinder (with diamond blade), tile-snapper
  • Grout sponge, microfiber sponge
  • Safety goggles
  • Trowel, margin trowel, ear protection, rubber gloves
  • Tape measure, pencil, drill, mixing paddle, knee pads
  • Utility knife, grout, mortar

DIY hardwood floor (or solid bamboo):

  • Pencil, chalk line
  • 6-foot level, tape measure
  • Miter saw, table saw, 60-tooth carbide tip saw blades, jam saw
  • Broom, cloth rags
  • Eye and ear protection, dust mask, gloves, knee pads
  • Floor fasteners
  • Hygrometer (to test home temperature and humidity), moisture meter (for wood subfloor and flooring), calcium chloride test (for concrete subfloor)
  • Painters tape, PVA wood glue
  • Compressor with regulator
  • Drill and drill bit set
  • Hammer, nail set, hardwood nailer
  • Rubber mallet and pry bar

Peel-and-stick vinyl tiles:

  • Tape measure
  • Chalk line
  • Utility knife
  • Handsaw (to cut around doorframes)

Pro tip: Most of the heavy-duty power tools are available for rent from a local hardware store, so you won’t have to shell out hundreds of dollars on tools you’ll rarely use again.

Trending stories,celebrity news and all the best of TODAY. Expect the unexpected and build in extra time for your DIY flooring project.Alamy Stock

Things will probably take longer than you expect

In an ideal world, you’d watch a few YouTube videos then breeze through your DIY floor installation, but things are easier said than done. As a general rule, the process of installing a new floor can take anywhere from one day to several days, depending on the size of the space. The type of flooring you’re using will also influence the length of time of your project.

“Click-together floors typically take less time than nail-down floors. And the DIYer’s expertise will affect the time it takes — more experienced flooring DIYers will typically finish projects more quickly than less experienced, just due to the learning curve,” said Mike Horn, senior VP of sales and services at Lumber Liquidators said.

Of course, you’ll also want to set aside enough time to prep your floors before diving in. “If the project involves a lot of surface preparation, including ripping up old carpets and making the subfloor sound, level and solid, that alone could eat up an entire day,” DiClerico said.

If you’ve got a helper and are working with a smaller space, DIY floor installation can be a nice weekend project. But if you’re dealing with a larger, more complicated installation, it can take twice as long.

“If you’re not in a huge rush, I’d advise splitting the work over two or three weekends. It can be very tedious, plus it’s tough on the knees and back, so you’ll appreciate the time off between sessions,” DiClerico said.

Here’s a quick cheat sheet of how long it might take for your DIY flooring project:

  • Tiling a bathroom floor: 2-3 days (as long as your subfloor is prepped, clean and ready to go)
  • Large room with laminate click-together flooring: approximately 1-2 days (the cuts around the perimeter take time)
  • Installing hardwood floors: 2-3 days
  • Peel-and-stick versions: half a day, depending on the size of the room

Each type of flooring has its own set of pros and cons.Getty Images stock

No two flooring types are alike

Between laminate, tile, vinyl and hardwood floors, there’s a flooring solution for every person and every room out there. And they each come with their own sets of pros and cons.


  • What is it? “Laminate flooring is a synthetic product made out of fiberboard with a photo of any material (wood, stone, etc.) glued to it, with a protective plastic layer on top,” DiClerico said.
  • Pros: Installing laminate is relatively easy and it’s also easy to maintain. Laminate is inexpensive, extremely durable and resistant to staining, scratching, wear and fading. “Laminate is perfect for busy homes with kids and/or pets, where style is appreciated, but so are budget and durability,” Horn said.
  • Cons: Laminate can sometimes look and feel like plastic, and you won’t be able to sand it down and refinish it the way you can with solid wood flooring. This flooring option also isn’t ideal for kitchens or bathrooms. “Laminate floors are susceptible to moisture from food and water spills and can be marked and dented when things are dropped,” Holmes said. Laminate is also prone to shifting and small cracks between the boards with changes in humidity or traction movement.


  • What is it? “There are two options for hardwood — solid or engineered. Solid hardwood is just how it sounds; it’s milled from solid wood, and there are both finished and unfinished options,” Horn said. “Engineered hardwood is real hardwood with a plywood, medium-density fiberboard (MDF) or lumber core. This core means that it is more stable than solid hardwood and can be used in any level of the home.”
  • Pros: Hardwood floors offer a classic, timeless look and there are several types from which to choose. “Hardwoods come in a wide variety of species and each species has a different hardness rating, meaning some are more or less durable than others,” Horn said.
  • Cons: Similar to laminate, hardwood flooring isn’t a great option for kitchens or bathrooms. The process of installing hardwood floors is also a bit more time intensive and expensive than some of the other flooring options.


  • What is it? This synthetic flooring option comes in sheet and tile options.
  • Pros: Vinyl is waterproof, so it’s ideal for bathrooms, basements or anywhere else hardwood and laminate isn’t recommended. It’s also easy to DIY and affordable.
  • Cons: Vinyl isn’t as durable as a flooring option like hardwood.


  • What is it? Tile flooring comes in a variety of colors and materials (like porcelain).
  • Pros: Tile is perfect for an indoor-outdoor living space. Porcelain tiles are also one of the more durable flooring options. “”They are easy to clean, with no off-gassing, and last for years,” Holmes said. “I like porcelain better than ceramic tile: It’s less porous and more resistant to moisture, more dense so it can handle heavier loads and the color of tile is continuous all the way through, so chips and cracks are almost invisible.” Tile is ideal for any high-traffic area and rooms that are close to a water source, like a kitchen, bathroom or laundry room.
  • Cons: Tiles are one of the hardest flooring options to install.

Each type of flooring has a unique installation process.Getty Images stock

Different types of flooring = different installation process

The way you install your flooring will certainly depend on which material you’re working with, but every installation process starts the same way: prep time.

“Once you’ve gathered all your tools and materials, the project starts with surface prep. You might be able to go right over the existing floor, if it’s stable and sound, but some patching will probably be required to level out the surface,” DiClerico said. “After the surface has been prepped, you’re ready to map out the pattern. The calculations will depend on the size and shape of your tiles, strips or boards.”

Some types of flooring also need to get used to their new surroundings before getting installed.

“If the floor requires acclimation, lay the flooring flat and leave it in the room(s) it will be installed in to acclimate for the amount of time listed in the installation guide,” Horn said.

Want some specific tips for your flooring type? Check out this cheat sheet:


  • Start off by removing the existing flooring and anything fastened to the floor. “If the subfloor is in good condition (no evidence of moisture, mold, warping or wood crumbling, etc.) just make sure it’s smooth and level and give it an extra good cleaning,” Holmes said. “If the subfloor is not in good condition, then you will have to replace it. If the subfloor is concrete, make sure the surface is smooth, level and patched.”
  • The process of installing hardwood flooring is somewhat similar to the click system, but you’ll need nails and a pneumatic (air) flooring nailer to nail each piece into place into the subfloor.
  • Don’t forget to let your hardwood planks acclimatize for a few days (ideally three) in the room they’ll be used in. You can also open up the boxes and mix the planks up so the pieces are varied.


  • With a laminate “click flooring” or tongue-and-groove system, you can install your flooring by clicking pieces together over an underlayment that rests on the subfloor. That means there’s no need for nailing or gluing!
  • Before doing anything, Holmes recommends removing any existing floor and making sure your subfloor is in good condition.
  • Like hardwood, let your laminate pieces acclimatize for a few days.


  • Installing tile is a bit different than installing laminate or hardwood. “Tile installation requires mortar and grout instead of nails, glue or simply clicking the planks together. The process it a little more labor intensive than a click-floor installation because of this, but it is still doable for a DIY project,” Horn said.
  • If you’re tiling a bathroom, you might want to use a waterproofing underlayment system. “When installed properly, it will ensure a waterproof seal of your floor and it also provides an added protection against tile movement, which causes cracks in tiles and grout lines,” said Holmes.
  • If you’re up for the job, make sure to familiarize yourself with mixing mortar, cutting tiles, using spacers and applying grout to the seams.


  • Vinyl type peel-and-stick flooring is ideal for the DIYer. Start by marking out the center of the room using chalk lines and do a dry run by placing the tiles out on the floor with the backing still on. “Divide your floor into quadrants and start your first tile in the center of the room and work out from the quadrants,” Holmes said. “Make sure the tiles butt up (next) to each other, unless, of course, you plan on having a grout line. Then you will have to use tile spacers between each tile.”
  • Next, place tiles in a step pattern and make sure the arrows on the back of the tile all follow the same direction. This is especially important if there is a specific design to your tiles. “As you approach the edge of the wall or corners, (you) will need to cut the tile. Make sure you mark this correctly as you will have to cut the tile to fit the space. And when going around corners, make a template from a piece of cardboard and use this to cut your tile,” Holmes said.
  • Please double check tile before you cut and remove the backing. Once the floor is done, you can use a roller to make sure the tiles are secure.

When it comes to flooring your home, there are a number of options available, including:

  • Hardwood: Durable flooring but installation of most types is not very DIY-friendly.
  • Carpet: Hard to keep clean and can be difficult to install yourself.
  • Tile: Durable and can be installed yourself, if you take the time to learn how.
  • Vinyl: Fairly durable but glued down version can be tricky to install.
  • Laminate: Very DIY-friendly to install and fairly durable.

Watch this video to find out about the different types of subfloor needed when installing flooring, and how to install no glue vinyl and tile flooring that are easy to install.

Read episode article to find out more.

Further Information

  • Pros and Cons of Different Types of Flooring (video)
  • How to Lay a Tile Floor (article)
  • How to Choose and Install Wood Floors (video)

Danny Lipford: New flooring is a solid choice if you’re looking to make a big difference in your home. So this week on Today’s Homeowner we’re rolling out some great do-it-yourself options and sharing some installation tips you don’t want to miss.

Almost any flooring project that you may take on around your home will start with a visit to a flooring showroom. And at some point during that visit you’ll probably say to yourself, “I had no idea how many choices are available in flooring these days.” Well, it is an important decision because flooring makes up such a large part of your home that it can really influence how it looks and how it feels. So, if you’re ready to make a big change, it might be a good place to start.

Now, a lot of people want to take on this type of project themselves, but not all flooring is so do-it-yourself friendly. Carpet was once the way to go, but carpet is one of the least do-it-yourself friendly options. Plus, it’s difficult to keep clean, and the fibers hold dust and other allergens which make life miserable for people with respiratory problems. And if you have pets, well, let’s just say everyone will know you have pets before they see them.

Hardwood flooring is a great alternative to address the issues of cleaning and allergens but isn’t necessarily DIY friendly. Traditional hardwood is nailed down to the subfloor and sanded, stained, and finished in place. That requires a lot of work, a lot of time, and some very specialized tools.

Some hardwoods can be glued down, which makes installation on concrete subfloors easier. And in many cases, these products are pre-finished, which reduces some of the time and tools required. But these installations still demand skills and tools that not all homeowners have.

Laminate floating floors offer a similar look, but are much more friendly to the do-it-yourselfer because they require no adhesives and very few tools. The fact that they are inexpensive makes them an easy choice.

Ceramic tile can also be inexpensive, and even though installation is a little time consuming, it’s very popular with do-it-yourselfers because it can deliver a high-end look on a modest budget.

Hey, we love getting questions from viewers. And lately it’s all about flooring. And can you put a certain type of floor over an existing floor? And if you’ve got concrete like this, and you’re wanting to install some ceramic, all you need to do is make sure the slab is nice and clean. And if you have any little holes here and there, fill them with a floor patch compound and you’re ready to go.

One question we’ve gotten, “What if I have vinyl on the floor, and it’s in pretty good shape, can I then install ceramic over vinyl?” Absolutely. No problem at all. As long as the vinyl is glued securely to the slab.

Now, here’s another scenario – a wood subfloor. If you have a wood subfloor, “Can I install ceramic directly to it?” Absolutely not. You’ll have some flooring guys out there saying that it’s okay, but I guarantee you’ll end up with some cracks.

Much better to do exactly this. First, this is half-inch cement backer board. You’ll want to put down an adhesive below it, then you’ll want to screw it with coated screws. Then, any seam that you have, you’ll want to put fiberglass mesh tape over it, and then use a thin-set adhesive to kind of smooth everything out. Then when you work hard and install all of your ceramic, it’ll be there for a long, long time.

Hey, another option. We talked earlier about wood and wood’s beautiful. If you have a wood subfloor, you can nail it straight down there. But so many people are finding out about laminate floors and still being able to get that great wood look.

So, you have either concrete or wood, what you’ll want to do first is use an underlayment. Now, this is a really good underlayment. There’s a lot of different types of underlayments – some will be very, very thin. It’s a lot better, in my opinion, to step up to a better underlayment, because it’ll make for a much quieter floor, and you’ll get all of the vapor barrier that you need.

After that’s down then you can take various types of laminate floor, these things are great now, they don’t even require any glue, just click ’em together like this. Follow your instructions, make sure you don’t get it too close to the wall, because it does need to expand and contract a little bit. And in most cases, in less than one day you can have a nice looking laminate floor.

Hey, I know I’ve thrown a lot of information at you, but you can go to our website and find out more about do-it-yourself flooring. Right now, Joe’s got a great tip for you if you’re doing a floor project on this week’s Simple Solutions.

Joe Truini: After installing a new floor, there’s one more important step you have to make, and that is to trim the bottom of the doors so that they clear the new flooring. In this case we have a new tile floor put down, including this threshold. So I need to trim the door so it goes over that.

And I’m going to start with is a small block of half-inch plywood. I like using half-inch because that represents the clearance space beneath the door. So you just set the block in place, then measure from the wooden block up to the bottom edge of this hinge plate, and that is about nine and a half inches.

Now, we just transfer that measurement to the door itself. And again, using that same reference point, the bottom edge of the hinge, just mark it at nine and a half inches. Here we go.

Now I’ll just square that line along. Now, if you cut right on that line you’ll end up with a door with exactly half inch clearance space beneath it.

Danny Lipford: This week we’re looking at a number of flooring options for your home, particularly those that are very do-it-yourself friendly. Now, vinyl floor is a fairly inexpensive type of floor, but generally it’s installed by a professional, because if you’ve ever tried to use that notched trowel, and spread all that adhesive out, then put the vinyl down and have to roll it out to get all the air bubbles; it really does require some skill and some practice.

But what if you could install a vinyl floor on the same principle that you have here on a laminate floor, where it basically just floats in place without any adhesive? That would be great and that’s exactly what we did recently in helping a friend of mine install a brand new product.

The product is called AirStep Evolution from Congoleum. And it’s a flexible sheet flooring with a fiberglass backing that’s much thicker than traditional sheet vinyl so that it can be installed either with or without adhesive.

Well, this material ought to go down pretty well. Let’s just get a rough measurement. And if you’ll hold that right over there, against the wall actually. Let’s go to the wall.

We’ll add a few inches to our measurements for doorways, but otherwise this is pretty straightforward, since the room is almost square. And now we got a few places here we’ll have to patch.

John Richards: Yeah, we had a water heater incident which flooded this room.

Danny Lipford: We’ll have to just take a putty knife and get the most of that out and we can just floor-patch that and go right over all of this.

The floor patch will fill in the low places, so that we don’t feel any depressions under the new vinyl. While it dries, we remove the shoe molding around the perimeter of the room. We want to reuse the shoe mold so we’re being very careful not to break it.

Outside, we roll the flooring out facedown on the drive, so that we can make our rough cuts. At about $2.75 cents a square foot, this stuff is pretty affordable, especially if you’re installing it yourself. And almost anyone can do this project. We roll it back up in the opposite direction so that we can roll it out face up back in the room.

One side of this tape sticks to the floors, really aggressive. It’ll stick very well. But the other side supposedly has the ability, if you mess up a little bit you can peel it. We’ll see how all that works out. Let’s go ahead, and we’ll put this down without peeling the backing off of it. So half-inch off the wall. The tape goes around all the walls to avoid any shifting while we’re working. Finally, we’re ready for the flooring.

Yeah, perfect, perfect. And then, here we go. Hey, all right? All right, it’s all yours.

John Richards: Okay.

With two walls set, we can peel off the backing on the tape and hold the flooring in position on those walls. Then it’s a matter of cutting the sheet to fit the two remaining walls by folding it at the baseboard and cutting it in the fold. Cutting around the doorways takes a little more time, but is still pretty easy if you have a nice, sharp utility knife.

All right, I’m ready for shoe molding. All right, that will definitely cover everything all the way around. Give you an idea of the finished look.

John Richards: What I’d like to do, Danny, that is if I could, paint this before we put it back down. It might be a little bit easier than trying to paint it in place.

Danny Lipford: Yeah, it’s pretty cool that all of this came up as one piece. We didn’t break a single bit of it.

John Richards: Yeah.

Danny Lipford: It’s just the skill in these hands that did that.

John Richards: Exactly.

Danny Lipford: So the final step is the threshold. John’s planning to replace the floors in the adjacent rooms soon, so we’re just gluing these in place to avoid putting any nail holes in the flooring where it will be seen. A few cinder blocks will hold them in place until they dry.

Well, John, one of the things, a big advantage of this, you don’t have to wait for any of the glue to dry before you can get in here with your drop cloth and go ahead and paint this room out.

John Richards: Right. Went down a lot easier than I ever imagined putting a floor down.

Danny Lipford: Yeah. Have you tried any, have you installed any floors at all before?

John Richards: I have not, but I have the confidence to get some of these other rooms done.

Danny Lipford: It’s pretty easy, because without that glue process, installing vinyl like this is a heck of a lot easier. Because, like I said earlier, that notched trowel, and the glue just gets all over you. But, hey, you don’t have any glue on you, none on me.

John Richards: Right.

Danny Lipford: A good day’s work.

John Richards: Yeah.

Jodi Marks: You know, I love installing laminate flooring, because it’s actually a very easy project. I think the hardest part about it is making your cuts, because you’ve got to go outside, where you’ve either set up your table saw and your miter saw, and then bring everything back in. Because it’s time consuming when you do that. But wouldn’t it be great if you had one saw that can make all of those cuts, and you could keep it in the same room you’re working in all at the same time?

Well, Ryobi has come out with a great five-inch laminate saw, and it’s perfect for doing everything you need when you’re putting down laminate flooring. Now, I’ve got a piece right here, so let me show you how it works.

It’s got a fence that I can just slide and pop into place. And then once I get it where I want it, I then lock down the blade here. And using the fence as my guide, I can push my plank lengthwise along the blade and it will make my rip. Then, if I need to make a crosscut, all I would have to do is relocate the fence to this side.

Once that gets locked into place, I then release the blade, and then what I could do is slide my plank underneath here. It actually slides like a radial arm saw, so it doesn’t matter the width of plank that I use. But I simply push the blade crossways across it and I can get my crosscut every time. And with this advanced dust collection system that it incorporates, you will not pick up a lot of dust. It’ll actually collect twice as much dust in here.

So, you can set this up in the same room you’re working in, so you can get your cuts perfect every time. You don’t have to waste your time going outside. And you’ll get your laminate floor down in no time.

Danny Lipford: This week we’re looking at a number of different flooring options for your home. We’ve already looked at quite a few, but here’s another one. Now, the floating floor like this laminate floor, is a real popular concept – very do-it-yourself friendly. And you can get a floor like this that kind of looks like ceramic or porcelain.

But now you can get a locking floor that floats that’s actually porcelain. This is a product that we saw at the International Builders’ Show last year. And it just clicks right together like this and has some great things that they say about this product. But you always wonder will it really work as well as they say in a real-life situation. Allen found out this week.

Allen demoed the product on a table at the trade show. So, for his real-world test he’s chosen a vintage ’50s bathroom in need of a flooring update. And its owner, Melanie Petithory, is helping with the installation and product evaluation.

Allen Lyle: The toilet definitely has to come up.

Danny Lipford: Removing the toilet is a must for new bathroom flooring if you want a nice, clean look. But getting all of the water out so that it doesn’t make a mess, well, that’s a bit of a trick.

Allen Lyle: This is one of those things I saw in a trade show like three years ago, and I never got to use it yet.

Melanie Petithory: Oh, well, good. I’m the first.

Allen Lyle: This is, yeah, you’re the first one. Okay, I’ve got it open here. And all you’re going to do is take this little powder, pour this powder into the water.

Melanie Petithory: I’m going to get to do that?

Allen Lyle: Yep.

Melanie Petithory: Okay. Straight into the water.

Allen Lyle: All the way down.

Melanie Petithory: Look at that.

Allen Lyle: Ain’t that something? Look at that. It’s already gelled up.

Melanie Petithory: So it won’t splash and slosh.

Allen Lyle: So it won’t slosh, but here’s the fun part. When we actually put the toilet back on and hook it up and turn the water back on, it will become liquid again.

Melanie Petithory: Whoa!

Allen Lyle: So we don’t have to do anything. We don’t have to touch any of that. We’re done. All right, walk. Getting down and dirty.

Melanie Petithory: I’m glad I did the part I did.

Allen Lyle: Yeah. And this is the nasty part. And actually, it’s just wax.

Melanie Petithory: Yeah, but it’s gooey.

Allen Lyle: But it’s gooey.

Melanie Petithory: Okay, now we can finally get to it.

Allen Lyle: Oh, yes.

Melanie Petithory: Hop to the tile!

Allen Lyle: Yeah. I would start at the tub because I would hate to start in this corner, and then get over here and only have a piece of tile.

Melanie Petithory: Right. And over here, if that’s over here it’s going to be hidden. Because you’ve got the toilet and the lavatory.

Danny Lipford: Like all floating floors. Cliks tile requires expansion gaps around the perimeter. So Allen is using some homemade spacers along the walls and tub. The manufacturer makes an installation kit that includes spacers and is sold separately.

Allen Lyle: So, boom! That’s our first tile. We’ve just laid one tile.

Melanie Petithory: Ta-da!

Allen Lyle: That easy.

Melanie Petithory: Hey, aren’t we good.

Allen Lyle: So we’re going to keep going.

Allen Lyle: So we’re going to keep going. Now, this, what makes this product so nice, Melanie, is the fact that we’re not going to put mastic down.

Melanie Petithory: Okay.

Allen Lyle: We’re not putting, say if this were a wood subfloor, we’re not having to put a backer board down. Because this, it has that polyurethane base with these little nodules on it. It becomes these little miniature I-beams everywhere.

Melanie Petithory: Okay, so that’ll keep it level and won’t wiggle and waggle.

Danny Lipford: As each new piece is added, it’s simply clicked into place and tapped with a block to lock the joint tight. The marking of cuts is very similar to what you would do with ordinary ceramic, except the allowance for spacers.

Cutting is exactly the same as traditional ceramic. You need a wet saw to cut through the porcelain and the polyurethane backing. Standing or kneeling on the tiles that are already laid seem to be the best way to tap in additional tiles. And in the middle of the room this part goes really quickly.

Where it begins to get tricky is as you near the opposite wall, there’s less room to swing the rubber mallet. So it’s a little more difficult to tap the pieces together. And each piece is a bit of a challenge.

That installation kit we mentioned earlier is supposed to solve that problem, but since Allen doesn’t have that, he has to do a little improvising. Now, what’s interesting to see here is how quickly Melanie is picking this up.

Allen Lyle: Score it down the line.

Melanie Petithory: Score it in a straight line.

­Allen Lyle: No tilting. Straight down there, and that’s what I need to keep.

Danny Lipford: As someone who’s never laid tile before, she’s really taking to it. Even handling the cuts on the wet saw.

Melanie Petithory: Am I good, or am I good?

Danny Lipford: She’s also putting in the rubber cove molding that’ll cover the expansion joint around the edges. Finally, Allen can set the toilet and vanity back in place and finish up the project. But what do they think of it?

Melanie Petithory: Well, you know, the clicking is very good if you’re in a nice, open space. But when you get into an awkward corner or in an awkward situation, there’s no flexibility in the ceramic.

Allen Lyle: You’re telling me this?

Melanie Petithory: Well?

Allen Lyle: I know it.

Melanie Petithory: Yeah, you found that out.

Allen Lyle: I found that out. You know, on the up side I got to tell you though, I love the product. It works well, it looks good.

Melanie Petithory: It looks grand!

Allen Lyle: But there were challenges.

Melanie Petithory: Yes.

Allen Lyle: I’m tired.

Melanie Petithory: I know you are.

Allen Lyle: I want water.

Melanie Petithory: You met those challenges.

Allen Lyle: I want a lot of water.

Melanie Petithory: Well?

Allen Lyle: No, I’ve had enough of this water. I want some water!

Ralph asks: We have some beautiful oak flooring beneath the old carpet in our house, but there are a few stains. Is there a way to remove those without sanding the whole floor?

Danny Lipford: Unfortunately, if you have some really deep stains in your hardwood floor, it will have to be sanded and refinished in order to get rid of those stains. Even then, some of the real deep stains are really hard to get rid of. Here’s a little trick that’ll help you a lot on that.

Basically, take a cotton rag, take hydrogen peroxide, soak it down well, put it over the stain, and allow the hydrogen peroxide to pull a lot of that stain out. Another thing you want to try before you go through the expense of the sanding and refinishing of your hardwood floor, try some of the new cleaners that are available now that are called rejuvenators. That’ll thoroughly clean the surface of your hardwood and actually dissolves a little of the finish to give it a nice, consistent look. You may be able to save money instead of having to completely refinish the floor.

Danny Lipford: The new twists that simplify flooring installation shouldn’t be any surprise when you consider how popular these projects are with do-it-yourselfers. Whether you try one of these new products or stick with the tried and true, the fact is it’s never been easier to tackle your own flooring project. And that means there’s no reason to put off improving your home one step at a time. As you can see, there are a lot of do-it-yourself options for flooring out there.

I know we’ve thrown a lot of information at you this week; but, of course, you can find out more about what we talked about today and other flooring options.